EPISODE 1 - CHOOSING THE SPOT AND FIRST WAVES
Choice of the spot and first waves
It’s true that at the beginning, it’s not easy as a surfer in any case, to recognize good waves for foiling. Basically, it’s the opposite of surfing, the smaller the wave, the softer it is, the better it is to start.
We started behind a boat, it is still easier to have the first sensations in boat, we can hold, there is not the wave to manage and at least we feel a little the takeoff and the landing a little less violent.
Then for the choice of the spot, it is obviously the farthest possible from the surfers, as you said of the soft waves, the entry in wave is made face to the beach and not across, in fact it is necessary to relearn some notions and it is necessary somewhere to be a little good surfer or an initiate to put itself in the surf foil and it is true that the foil tends to want to go out directly in the entry in wave, at the time of the take off but in the idea it is better to take off and then to turn, rather than trying to catch the wave the wrong way, like in surfing, and immediately getting up again.
You must not make the mistake of going to surf small waves that break at the edge and where there is no water afterwards, the idea is to find a small wave that breaks and afterwards where there is a bay or a water hole and really be launched with the foam, get up and once you’re up there it’s gone.
And of course start your first wave sessions when it’s small and when the wave is flat, you shouldn’t start when the wave is hollow and fermenting. The ideal is to find a spot that unwinds for a long time to really have time to reposition your feet, to understand the reactions of the foil.
But you have to master the beast as Ludovic Dulou would say, so there is a long learning curve and many things to learn or relearn for the more experienced surfers.